Solu-Khumbu part 5: Coming back home

With three nights at 5200m in Gorak Shep, the next on my hit-list was the Chhukhung valley. Since I was in no rush, I woke up late (relatively) to head down valley towards Dingbouche. Pella and Zahi were headed towards Cho La, so I hiked with them past Lobouche to show them the short cut towards Dzongla. Chris had been bedridden with a nasty case of snowblindness (he recovered fine and actually staying in my hotel in Kathmandu). The snow from two days ago made the whole valley sparkle under the sun and many yak trains moved past us, loaded with supplies for Lobouche and Gorak Shep.


In a minor pass I got my first good view of Ama Dablam of the day.


All day there were tons of yaks, tons and tons of yaks. They look great in pictures but are somewhat ornery creatures. And with big horns the prospect of one headbutting you is not the most pleasing of ideas.


I got to the pass above Dingbouche and met two recent university graduates from the UK. They had found a little used, very nice, lodge in Dingbouche so I joined them for the night. I could have made it up to Chhukhung, but I was in no hurry. The next morning I hiked up Nangkartshang peak (5100mish). The peak is mostly used by groups during an acclimatization day, but since I was fully acclimatized I just motored to the top. I decided to take the 'Nepali way' to the top using a trail leading from town that went straight up the face to the ridge that would lead ultimately to the summit. It was a fun little scramble with some fantastic views of Ama Dablam right on the other side of the valley.


The summit was, as they all are, covered in prayer flags and offered a view that few rarely see of Ama Dablam, simply because most groups who go up the peak turn around before the reach the top. At 9am is was very nice and quiet on the top. With a few large tour groups coming up the ridge I knew my peace and might be short lived. One last view of one of the most beautiful mountains in the world and it was off down to Dingbouche then up to Chhukhung.

A few hours trek up the valley and I reached the town of Chhukhung. There aren't many lodges here just because most people only use the valley as an acclimatization day from Dingbouche. I met a group of guides and porters that were surprised it was my first trek in Nepal. They could swear it was my second or third. I'm guessing it might have been the long beard or the tired look in my eyes, but who knows, I guess it's a compliment.

My main goal for Chhukhung was Chhukhung Ri, which as good views of Ama Dablam, down valley towards Namche, and the Lhotse-Nuptse wall. The next morning I worked my way up the valley to the peak. By the time I was 3/4ths the way up the mountain I began to realize how tired I was becoming. 3 and a half weeks of trekking was beginning to take it's toll and I was getting less and less excited about trekking up mountains. I made it to the top and it was fantastic, but the Nuptse-Lhotse wall was shrowded in clouds and it never seemed to come out.

Still a good view of Ama Dablam.


Once I got down to Chhukhung, I packed my bags and made my way towards the throngs of other trekkers that undoubtedly were making their way up the valley. I stopped in Pangbouche for the night. Staying at the Ama Dablam View lodge, with hopes to see the mountain for one last day. The next day I woke up to heavy clouds, oh well - I'd seen many good mountains in the past weeks.

As expected, tons of trekkers streamed up the valley with hopes of seeing Everest and visiting base camp. Many of the mani stones were brightly painted, undoubtedly indirectly funded by the throngs of trekkers.


I stopped for second breakfast at Tengbouche, the site of a famous monastery. It was undergoing the finishing touches of some reconstruction, but it was still beautiful.


There were some high suspension bridges over rushing rivers. Reminants of older editions were everywhere, but the newer ones had no risks whatsoever.


After a long, long day I made it back to Namche. The town was a welcome sight because it meant good food and bakeries so I could get an apple pie!


The next day I had an even longer seeming day to Lukla for my flight out to Kathmandu. The Lukla airport is quite the sight. It is very short and built as an uphill landing to accommodate larger planes. For incoming flights it looks like you are a small dart going in to the bullseye. Outgoing flights have the runway drop off below you just as the pilot pulls up on the yoke. But instead of a week long hike and 8 hour drive it's a 40 minute plane ride to the Kathmandu airport.


The next morning I was on a twin engine prop plane to Kathmandu and by 9am I was sitting eating an apple danish in a bakery in Thamel.

Not too bad of a trip I'd say.